Sicilia

Travel in Sicily

"This is the home of the gods of Greek mythology. Near these places, Pluto abducted Persephone from her mother in this wood we just crossed, Ceres suspended her rapid chase and, tired of her fruitless search, she sat down on a rock and, although a goddess, she wept, the Greeks say, because she was a mother. Apollo has guarded the herds in the valleys, and these groves and extending to the seashore have echoed the pan flute, the nymphs are lost in their shadows and breathed their fragrance. Here Galatea escaped Polyphemus, and Akis, on the verge of falling under the blows of his rival, enchanted yet these shores and there left his name ... In the distance you can see the lake of Hercules and the rocks of the Cyclops. Sicily, the land of gods and heroes!"
Tocqueville

STAY
Siricusa (Syracuse)
Hotel des Etrangers - beautiful views of Siricusa from its rooftop bar and restaurant but beware: the current owner is in jail for bribery charges so the hotel was understaffed i.e., no one at front desk) during our stay

Taormina
Hotel Timeo - glamorous hotel with views of the sea and Mount Etna and the Greek theater and impeccable service; restaurant on terrace had wonderful views and specialty cocktails (and great people-watching); travel by boat and view the "stones" thrown at Odysseus in The Odyssey

Palermo
Villa Tasca - private home owned by the Tasca family; famous guests included Richard Wagner

EAT
Porta Marina - VERY authentic Sicilian cuisine with lots of fresh seafood

Don Camillo - perfect pasta alla Norma with a local vibe and cool ambiance surrounded by original stone walls and ceiling

La Capinera - eat here at sunset and enjoy creative spins on seafood and Sicilian specialties on the beach in Taormina 

Maria (Erice) - marzipan fruits, preserved caponata

Baglia Fontanasalsa - olive oil producer with a celebrated selection of olive oils and a charming restaurant run by Colette; rustic Sicilian dishes but the best meal we had in Sicily!

VISIT
Syracuse - once the most powerful Greek city colonized by the Corinthians with a beautiful Greek theater carved from limestone and the Ear of Dionysius, a cathedral sized artificial grotto with perfect acoustics

Ragusa Ibla - charming jumble of churches and buildings rebuilt in the Baroque style of architecture after the 1693 earthquake that left the original town in ruins; try the local cheeses (caciocavallo and piacentinu with saffron)

Noto - Baroque palaces, churches and houses with beautiful balconies on the Via Nicolaci; time your trip for the annual Flower Festival where hundreds of thousands of flower petals are arranged in graphic patterns

Modica - magnificant churches, bell towers and intricate facades with red-tiled roofs; visit the chocolate shops (one is 400 years old) and try the candied lemon and orange covered chocolates

Mount Etna - quad tours available of the volcanic deposits, fertile soils and forests, lava tunnels

Taormina - tour the Greek theater built in the 7th century now used for concerts and fashion shows (Dolce & Gabana Spring 2013 ads were photographed here) and stroll the Corso Umberto for the best Italian fashion and jewelry made from volcanic glass

Villa Romana del Casale - best example of Roman mosaics in the world; built in the 3rd and 4th centuries for an owner who wanted to demonstrate his importance by indicating his contributions to Roman life and his town; check out the most famous mosaic of the girls in bikinis 

Palermo - visit the Vucciria food market and the Capella Palatina, an exquisite fusion of Arab, Norman, and Byzantine art and architecture; if not too macabre, visit the Catacombs where thousands of locals have been perfectly preserved for hundreds of years

Monreale - this stunning cathedral has 24kt gold medieval Christian mosaics built for William II in 10 years combining European and Arab styles

Segesta - view the immaculate Elymian-Greek temple

Erice - medieval hilltop town with Maria's delicious pastries